Index: /llms.txt

# What are perfume ingredients? Naturals, molecules, accords

https://www.scento.com/blog/perfume-ingredients-explained

November 5, 2026

Perfume is alcohol plus a fragrance concentrate, listed as "parfum" on labels.[1][2][3] The concentrate mixes natural oils, lab-made aroma molecules and accords. Bergamot, lotus, osmanthus, tonka bean, amber, oud, Iso E Super and Ambroxan are the eight below, each with a perfume that shows it.

- A label lists alcohol, "parfum" (the concentrate) and often water, then the named substances.[1]
- Bergamot is a key ingredient in more than 50% of fine fragrances worldwide, according to the IFEAT socio-economic report.[4]
- Amber in perfume is an accord. It has nothing to do with the yellow amber stone or with ambergris.[5]
- Iso E Super does not exist in nature: Escentric Molecules says it was created in a laboratory at IFF in 1973.[6]

Key figures

**more than 50%**

Of fine fragrances worldwide use bergamot

IFEAT [4]

**~90%**

Of the world's bergamot is grown in Calabria

IFEAT [4]

**65%**

Of Escentric 01's compound is Iso E Super

Escentric Molecules [6]

**1950**

The year Firmenich patented the Ambrox route from clary sage

Firmenich [7]

**56**

Fragrance allergens the EU added to labels, enforced for new products since 31 July 2026

European Commission [8]

**#3**

Guidance's rank among the most-bought perfumes on Scento across Europe, October 2025 to September 2026

Scento Fragrance Index [9]

## Eight ingredients at a glance

The table gives each ingredient's type, what it smells like and a stocked perfume that shows it. The sections below explain each one with the houses' own descriptions.

| Ingredient | Type | Smells like | Found in (stocked example) |
| --- | --- | --- | --- |
| Bergamot | Natural, cold-pressed oil | Zesty, slightly peppery, green citrus | Aqua Allegoria Bergamote Calabria by Guerlain |
| Lotus | Mostly an accord | Cool, watery, slightly powdery | Un Jardin sur le Nil by Hermès |
| Osmanthus | Natural absolute | Apricot on a leathery base | Guidance by Amouage |
| Tonka bean | Natural seed, key molecule coumarin | Sweet, vanilla-like | Arabians Tonka by Montale |
| Amber | Accord | Warm, resinous, vanilla-sweet | Grand Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian |
| Oud | Natural resin, often an accord in perfumes | Woody, resinous, smoky, leathery | Oud for Greatness by Initio Parfums Privés |
| Iso E Super | Lab-made aroma molecule | Smooth, woody, amber, velvety | Escentric 01 by Escentric Molecules |
| Ambroxan | Aroma molecule made via sclareolide, from clary-sage sclareol | Mineral, smooth, marine woody | Molecule 02 by Escentric Molecules |

## How perfume ingredients are grouped

Perfumers work with three kinds of material. Naturals are pressed, distilled or extracted from plants, such as bergamot oil or osmanthus absolute. Aroma molecules are made in a laboratory, such as Iso E Super. Accords are blends built from several materials to suggest one smell, which is how amber and most lotus scents work. Both naturals and lab-made materials appear in most formulas, and our guide to [natural versus synthetic perfume ingredients](https://www.scento.com/blog/natural-vs-synthetic-perfume-ingredients) covers that comparison in full, so this page stays with what each material smells like.

## Bright openings: bergamot

Bergamot is a citrus fruit whose peel oil is cold-pressed by machine, using traditional systems such as Pelatrice extractors.[4] IFEAT puts it in more than 50% of all fine fragrances worldwide, and says Calabria makes up around 90% of total production, from over 1,400 hectares.[4] It takes 200 kg of fruit to obtain 1 kg of oil, and current production is calculated at 125 metric tons per year.[4]

Houses describe the scent in similar terms. Dior says the bergamot from Reggio di Calabria in Sauvage is "fruitier and develops unique, slightly peppery and zesty facets".[1] Guerlain calls bergamot "Calabrian green gold" with "an exquisite green floral citrus freshness".[2] For how the oil is pressed and why Calabrian origin matters, read [how bergamot is pressed and why Calabria matters](https://www.scento.com/blog/bergamot-in-perfume-italian-citrus-opens-every-fragrance); the [bergamot note page](https://www.scento.com/note/bergamot) lists perfumes built on it.

### Sauvage by Dior

Dior's page for Sauvage Eau de Toilette says it opens with Calabrian bergamot and anchors it with ambroxan, elemi and woods.[1] Across Europe, it was the 17th most-bought masculine perfume on Scento from October 2025 to September 2026 (Scento Fragrance Index).[9] It suits anyone who wants bergamot with a peppery edge.

[Sauvage as a 2 ml decant (€7.90)](https://www.scento.com/perfumes/sauvage-dior)

### Aqua Allegoria Bergamote Calabria by Guerlain

Guerlain describes it as "an ode to bergamot", spiced by cardamom, pink peppercorn and ginger.[2] It is the plainer way to meet the note, with the fruit in front and the spices as support.

[Aqua Allegoria Bergamote Calabria as a 2 ml decant (€6.90)](https://www.scento.com/perfumes/aqua-allegoria-bergamote-calabria-guerlain)

## Watery and fruity florals: lotus and osmanthus

Lotus rarely comes from the flower itself. Fragrenza notes that most fragrance applications use either a highly diluted natural absolute or, more commonly, synthetic lotus accords "constructed from aquatic materials, clean white floral molecules, and green notes".[10] It describes the smell as "cool, watery freshness", "delicate, slightly powdery, with a green undertone".[10] To compare scents built around the note, see [five perfumes built around lotus](https://www.scento.com/blog/perfumes-inspired-by-lotus-flower), which also answers whether lotus scents suit hot weather.

### Un Jardin sur le Nil by Hermès

Created in 2005 by Jean-Claude Ellena, it "combines tangy green mango with delicate lotus and elegant sycamore", and Hermès lists green mango, lotus and sycamore wood as its main raw materials.[11] The lotus sits between fruit and wood rather than in a bouquet of flowers.

[Un Jardin sur le Nil as a 2 ml decant (€7.90)](https://www.scento.com/perfumes/un-jardin-sur-le-nil-hermes)

### L'Eau d'Issey by Issey Miyake

Launched in 1992 and created by Jacques Cavallier, it lists lotus among its top notes.[12] Here lotus sits at the top of the pyramid rather than in the heart.

[L'Eau d'Issey as a 2 ml decant (€6.90)](https://www.scento.com/perfumes/leau-dissey-issey-miyake)

Osmanthus is the opposite case, a true natural. Givaudan describes Osmanthus Absolute China (Osmanthus fragrans) as "a luxurious flower with delicate apricot notes on a leathery base".[13] The leather comes from the process: the harvested flowers are put in brine to ferment, "developing phenolic notes that give the animal and warm leather facet".[13] The trees flower from September to mid-November in southern Chinese provinces.[13] Perfumer Sylvaine Delacourte writes that it takes 720 kg of flowers to produce only 750 g of absolute.[14] For what it pairs with, and whether it smells like jasmine, see [osmanthus perfumes compared](https://www.scento.com/blog/perfumes-featuring-osmanthus).

### Guidance by Amouage

Amouage lists saffron, rose, jasmine sambac and osmanthus in the heart.[15] Guidance, whose heart includes osmanthus, was the third most-bought perfume on Scento across Europe from October 2025 to September 2026, and the first among perfumes labelled feminine (Scento Fragrance Index).[9]

[Guidance as a 2 ml decant (€12.90)](https://www.scento.com/perfumes/guidance-amouage)

### Osmanto Shock by New Notes

New Notes places jasmine, "Osmanthus ABS", white rose, cananga and cardamom in the heart.[16] The "ABS" on the label points to the absolute, the same kind of extract Givaudan describes.

[Osmanto Shock as a 2 ml decant (€10.90)](https://www.scento.com/perfumes/osmanto-shock-new-notes)

## Warm bases: tonka bean and amber

Tonka beans are the seed of Dipteryx odorata.[17] Their key molecule is coumarin, which has "a sweet odor resembling the scent of vanilla".[17] The authors cite 1-3% coumarin in tonka beans, up to 10% in rare cases.[17] Coumarin was first isolated from tonka bean in 1820 by Alfred Vogel and first synthesised in 1868 by William Henry Perkin.[17] It has been part of the fougère genre since Houbigant's Fougère Royale in 1882.[18] If you are weighing tonka against vanilla, [tonka bean versus vanilla](https://www.scento.com/blog/tonka-bean-in-perfume-vanillas-warmer-cousin-explained) covers how they differ and how to layer tonka.

### Arabians Tonka by Montale

Montale lists amber, oakmoss, tonka bean, leather, brown sugar and white musk in the base.[19] It was the 25th most-bought perfume across Europe on Scento, and the 13th among unisex perfumes, from October 2025 to September 2026 (Scento Fragrance Index).[9]

[Arabians Tonka as a 2 ml decant (€7.95)](https://www.scento.com/perfumes/arabians-tonka-montale)

Amber is not one material. Maison Francis Kurkdjian states that the amber used in perfumery has nothing to do with the yellow amber stone, which is ornamental but has no smell, nor with ambergris, an animal extract from the sperm whale.[5] The original accord paired cistus labdanum, "with its warm, resinous, animal facets", and vanillin, and is generally enriched with tonka bean, coumarin and resins such as benzoin or incense, which are all base notes.[5] To see how that structure warms a whole fragrance, read [how the amber accord is built](https://www.scento.com/blog/amber-in-perfume-how-warms-fragrance), which also separates amber from ambergris and Ambroxan.

### Grand Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

The maker calls it "amber and woody", with notes of benzoin, labdanum, tonka bean and vanilla.[5] It was the 14th most-bought unisex perfume on Scento across Europe from October 2025 to September 2026 (Scento Fragrance Index).[9]

[Grand Soir as a 2 ml decant (€13.90)](https://www.scento.com/perfumes/grand-soir-maison-francis-kurkdjian)

## Oud: a resin born from a wound

Oud is agarwood, which forms in Aquilaria, Gyrinops and other genera. These trees "produce a dark aromatic resin in response to infection by a type of fungal mould", according to a 2015 CITES Plants Committee document.[20] The same document records prices of up to US$2 million per kg of woodchips for the highest quality agarwood.[20] A 2022 ITTO review tabled at CITES says the percentage of trees with agarwood in the wild is likely less than 10%, across the listed genera, which cover at least 28 species.[21]

That scarcity is regulated. Aquilaria malaccensis was listed in CITES Appendix II in 1995, and all other agarwood-producing Aquilaria and Gyrinops species were listed in 2004, with their listings entering into force on 12 January 2005.[20] Three guides go deeper: [what oud actually smells like](https://www.scento.com/blog/what-does-oud-smell-like-beginners-guide) covers its woody, resinous, smoky, leathery, sweet and medicinal facets and the difference between natural oil and oud accords; [oud's history in the Middle East](https://www.scento.com/blog/origins-oud-middle-eastern-history) follows agarwood from Asian forests along the trade routes to Arabia; and [why oud became a luxury note](https://www.scento.com/blog/oud-luxury-fragrance-staple) explains how it forms and how to judge quality and ethical sourcing. The [oud note page](https://www.scento.com/note/oud) lists perfumes by it.

### Oud for Greatness by Initio Parfums Privés

Initio lists oud, agarwood oil, lavender, saffron, patchouli, musk and nutmeg as main notes.[3] It was the 18th most-bought masculine perfume on Scento across Europe from October 2025 to September 2026 (Scento Fragrance Index).[9]

[Oud for Greatness as a 2 ml decant (€10.95)](https://www.scento.com/perfumes/initio-parfums-prives-oud-for-greatness)

### Oud Silk Mood by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Parfumo describes it as Laotian oud with Bulgarian rose and papyrus.[22] It shows oud softened by a floral note rather than pushed dark.

[Oud Silk Mood as a 2 ml decant (€17.90)](https://www.scento.com/perfumes/oud-silk-mood-maison-francis-kurkdjian)

## Lab-made molecules: Iso E Super and Ambroxan

IFF, which makes Iso E Super, describes it as "smooth, woody, amber with unique aspects giving a 'velvet' like sensation" and a "superb floralizer found in the majority of newer fine fragrances".[23] IFF lists a typical use level of up to 10% and substantivity of more than 48 hours.[23] Escentric Molecules says Iso E Super does not exist in nature and was created in a laboratory at IFF in 1973.[6] Why it reads so differently from person to person, and how to test it, is the subject of [why Iso E Super smells different on everyone](https://www.scento.com/blog/iso-e-super-in-perfume-note-smells-like-you), which also sets it against Ambroxan.

### Escentric 01 by Escentric Molecules

Escentric 01 "focuses on Iso E Super at 65% of the fragrance compound", in "a tight edit of 18 ingredients".[6] It is built around that one molecule.

[Escentric 01 as a 2 ml decant (€6.90)](https://www.scento.com/perfumes/escentric-01-escentric-molecules)

Ambroxan has a longer story. In 1950 Firmenich discovered the chemical structure of Ambrox, and in the same year patented the synthesis route of Ambrox L from sclareolide, a derivative of sclareol extracted from clary sage.[7] Firmenich launched Cetalox in 1993, and in 2016 made the first commercial scale-up of Ambrox Super on its white biotechnology platform.[7] For how dosage changes the smell and how to spot an Ambroxan-heavy perfume, read [the molecule that replaced ambergris](https://www.scento.com/blog/ambroxan-in-perfume-synthetic-replaced-ambergris). Dior says Sauvage's Ambroxan "unfurls its marine woody notes, as vivifying as ocean spray".[1]

### Molecule 02 by Escentric Molecules

WWD reported in 2008 that Molecule 02 "is solely composed of Ambroxan, a scent molecule originally found in ambergris that has a mineral smoothness".[24] WWD described it as built on Ambroxan alone.

[Molecule 02 as a 2 ml decant (€7.90)](https://www.scento.com/perfumes/molecule-02-escentric-molecules)

## How safety rules shape a formula: IFRA and EU labels

IFRA Standards "restrict, prohibit or set specifications for the safe use of fragrance materials".[25] After the 51st Amendment, notified on 30 June 2023, there were 263 Standards.[25] The 52nd Amendment will introduce 48 new restriction Standards addressing potential dermal sensitisation effects, 37 of them with an additional evaluation of systemic toxicity endpoints.[26] IFRA expects the formal notification in January 2027, with entry into force 11 months later for new creations and 30 months later for existing creations.[26] What compliance means for a finished perfume is covered in [what IFRA compliance means for a perfume](https://www.scento.com/blog/ifra-compliant-fragrances-guide), including Category 4 for fine fragrance and reformulation.

Labels follow a separate EU rule. Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 introduces individual labelling for 56 additional fragrance allergens, which must be listed when the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products.[8] Since 31 July 2026, cosmetic products that do not comply may no longer be placed on the EU market, and products placed before that date may be sold until 31 July 2028.[8]

This is why Iso E Super increasingly appears as a long chemical name on real labels. Labels use INCI names, the standard ingredient-list names. CosIng lists Tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes, the INCI name of Iso E Super, under that regulation, to be indicated when above 0.001% in leave-on products.[27] It appears in the published ingredient lists of Dior Sauvage, Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Bergamote Calabria, Montale Arabians Tonka and Initio Oud for Greatness.[1][2][19][3] The Sauvage and Bergamote Calabria lists also show "Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Peel Oil", which is bergamot oil, and "Coumarin", the tonka molecule.[1][2] A list shows which allergens and named materials are present. It never shows the full formula, because the rest stays under "parfum".

## More ways to explore notes

To search by note rather than by ingredient, use the [perfume notes finder](https://www.scento.com/perfume-notes-finder) or browse the [fragrance notes library](https://www.scento.com/notes). For scarcer materials, [rare ingredients in artisan perfumes](https://www.scento.com/blog/rare-ingredients-artisan-perfumes) goes further.

## How we compiled this

We chose each ingredient for what it shows and described it from maker, house and industry sources read on 5 November 2026, preferring primary sources and marking secondary ones in the list below. Every perfume is stocked, with notes taken from the house's own pages where available, and prices are the retail prices checked on the same day. Rankings come from the Scento Fragrance Index for Europe, October 2025 to September 2026, and are ranks only.

## Sources

1. [Sauvage Eau de Toilette](https://www.dior.com/en_us/beauty/products/sauvage-eau-de-toilette-Y0685240.html), Dior (US).
2. [Aqua Allegoria Bergamote Calabria Eau de Toilette](https://www.guerlain.com/us/en-us/p/aqua-allegoria-bergamote-calabria---eau-de-toilette-P014384.html), Guerlain (US).
3. [Oud for Greatness](https://initioparfums.com/products/oud-for-greatness), Initio Parfums Privés.
4. [Socio-economic impact study of the naturals: Bergamot oil](https://web.archive.org/web/20241205214732/https://ifeat.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/bergamot_SE_report.pdf), IFEAT, c. 2017 (archived copy).
5. [Grand Soir scented body lotion](https://www.franciskurkdjian.com/us-en/p/grand-soir-scented-body-lotion-RA92237.html), Maison Francis Kurkdjian.
6. [Escentric 01 100ml](https://www.escentric.com/en-us/products/escentric-01-100ml), Escentric Molecules, page dated 14 November 2025.
7. [Sharing innovation in perfumery 2016](https://www.firmenich.com/sites/default/files/2020-10/Sharing-innovation-perfumery-2016.pdf), Firmenich, 2016.
8. [Fragrance allergens labelling](https://single-market-economy.ec.europa.eu/sectors/cosmetics/cosmetic-products-specific-topics/fragrance-allergens-labelling_en), European Commission (DG GROW).
9. Scento Fragrance Index, Scento, paid decant units, Europe, October 2025 to September 2026.
10. [What Does Lotus Smell Like?](https://www.fragrenza.com/blogs/notes-in-perfumery/lotus-in-perfumery), Fragrenza, 16 September 2021 (secondary source).
11. [Un Jardin sur le Nil Eau de toilette](https://www.hermes.com/us/en/product/un-jardin-sur-le-nil-eau-de-toilette-V20396/), Hermès USA.
12. [L'Eau d'Issey](https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Issey-Miyake/L-eau-d-Issey-720.html), Fragrantica (secondary source).
13. [Osmanthus Absolute China](https://www.givaudan.com/fragrance-beauty/fragrance-ingredients-business/natural-ingredients/osmanthus-absolute-china), Givaudan.
14. [Osmanthus Flower: Unique Natural Fruity Note and Rarity](https://blog.delacourte.com/en/osmanthus-flower/), Sylvaine Delacourte, 17 February 2020 (secondary source).
15. [Guidance 100ml](https://amouage.com/products/100ml-guidance), Amouage.
16. [Osmanto Shock](https://en.newnotesparfum.com/product-page/osmanto-overdose), New Notes.
17. [Coumarin contents of tonka (Dipteryx odorata) products](https://doi.org/10.1007/s00217-024-04648-z), Toma, Stegmüller and Richling, European Food Research and Technology, 8 January 2025.
18. [Coumarin](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coumarin), Wikipedia (secondary source).
19. [Arabians Tonka](https://montaleparfums.com/en/oriental/282-arabians-tonka.html), Montale.
20. [Agarwood-producing taxa (Aquilaria spp. and Gyrinops spp.), PC22 Doc 17.5.1 Rev.1](https://cites.org/sites/default/files/eng/com/pc/22/E-PC22-17-05-01-Rev1.pdf), CITES, 2015.
21. [Expensive, Exploited and Endangered (ITTO Technical Series 51; CITES CoP19 Inf. 12 Rev. 1)](https://cites.org/sites/default/files/documents/E-CoP19-Inf-12-R1.pdf), Thompson, Lim and Turjaman, ITTO, 2022.
22. [Oud Silk Mood Eau de Parfum](https://www.parfumo.com/Perfumes/Maison_Francis_Kurkdjian/Oud_Silk_Mood_Eau_de_Parfum), Parfumo (secondary source).
23. [Iso E Super, Ingredients Compendium](https://www.iff.com/scent/ingredients-compendium/iso-e-super/), IFF.
24. [Escentric Molecules Scents in U.S. Rollout](https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/fragrance/feature/escentric-molecules-scents-in-us-rollout-1790501-1601117/), WWD, 22 September 2008.
25. [Update to IFRA's 'Safe use' program (51st Amendment)](https://ifrafragrance.org/latest-updates/press-releases/update-to-the-international-fragrance-associations-safe-use-program-reinforces-user-confidence), IFRA, 24 July 2023.
26. [IFRA publishes End of Consultation Letter for the 52nd Amendment](https://ifrafragrance.org/latest-updates/ifra-news/ifra-publishes-end-of-consultation-letter-for-the-52nd-amendment-to-the-ifra-standards), IFRA, 1 September 2026.
27. [CosIng substance 100417 (Tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes)](https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/details/100417), European Commission.

## Your questions

### What are the main ingredients in perfume?

Published ingredient lists from Dior, Guerlain and Initio show alcohol, a fragrance concentrate listed as parfum, and often water, followed by named substances. The concentrate mixes natural oils such as bergamot peel oil, aroma molecules such as Iso E Super and accords such as amber. The list shows which allergens and named materials are present, but never the full formula.

### Are perfume ingredients natural or synthetic?

Both. IFEAT describes bergamot oil as cold-pressed from the fruit, while Escentric Molecules says Iso E Super does not exist in nature. Firmenich makes Ambrox L from sclareolide, a derivative of sclareol extracted from clary sage. Most formulas combine natural and lab-made materials, so neither type alone describes a perfume.

### Is amber in perfume made from real amber?

No. Maison Francis Kurkdjian states that the amber used in perfumery has nothing to do with the yellow amber stone, which has no smell, nor with ambergris, an animal extract. It is an accord that originally paired cistus labdanum with vanillin, and is generally enriched with tonka bean, coumarin and resins such as benzoin or incense.

### What is oud made from?

Oud is agarwood, a dark aromatic resin that Aquilaria, Gyrinops and other trees produce in response to infection by a type of fungal mould, according to a 2015 CITES Plants Committee document. Aquilaria malaccensis has been in CITES Appendix II since 1995, and the other agarwood-producing Aquilaria and Gyrinops species since 2004 (in force from January 2005).

### What does tonka bean smell like?

Tonka beans, the seed of Dipteryx odorata, owe their scent mainly to coumarin, which a 2025 study describes as having a sweet odour resembling vanilla. The study's authors cite 1-3% coumarin in tonka beans, up to 10% in rare cases. In perfume, tonka usually sits in the base, as in Montale's Arabians Tonka.

### What does osmanthus smell like?

Givaudan describes Osmanthus Absolute China as a luxurious flower with delicate apricot notes on a leathery base. The leather comes from fermenting the harvested flowers in brine, which develops phenolic notes. Perfumes such as Amouage's Guidance and New Notes' Osmanto Shock carry osmanthus in the heart.

### Why does my perfume list a long chemical name?

The European Commission says that since 31 July 2026, products newly placed on the EU market must label 56 additional fragrance allergens above 0.001% in leave-on products. CosIng lists Tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes, the INCI name of Iso E Super, under that regulation, and it appears on the published lists of Dior Sauvage and Montale Arabians Tonka.

### What does IFRA do?

IFRA sets Standards that restrict, prohibit or set specifications for the safe use of fragrance materials. It reported 263 Standards after its 51st Amendment in 2023. Its 52nd Amendment will introduce 48 new restriction Standards, with formal notification expected in January 2027, according to IFRA.