Ylang-ylang (Cananga odorata) is a tropical tree native to Southeast Asia, particularly thriving in the Philippines, Indonesia, and Malaysia. Known for its fragrant, star-shaped blossoms, it has been deeply rooted in local customs and ceremonies for centuries. Today, it plays a key role in the global fragrance industry, thanks to its inclusion in iconic perfumes like Chanel No. 5.
Key points:
- Origins: Native to Southeast Asia, the tree grows up to 98 feet tall and produces flowers used in weddings, religious offerings, and traditional remedies.
- Global Impact: Introduced to perfumery in 1860, ylang-ylang oil is now a cornerstone of luxury fragrances.
- Production: The oil is distilled from hand-picked flowers, requiring 110 lbs of blooms for 2.2 lbs of oil. The Comoros and Madagascar lead global production.
- Grades of Oil: Distilled in stages, the highest-grade oil is used in fine perfumes, while lower grades suit soaps and cosmetics.
- Sustainability: Modern methods, like solar-powered distillation, are reducing environmental strain.
Ylang-ylang’s journey from Southeast Asian traditions to luxury perfumery is a testament to its enduring appeal and versatility.
Cultural and Historical Background of Ylang — Ylang
Uses in Southeast Asian Ceremonies and Daily Life
Before ylang-ylang gained international recognition, it was deeply rooted in the traditions of Southeast Asia. In Indonesia and the Philippines, the flower played a key role in wedding rituals. Newlyweds would find their beds adorned with ylang-ylang petals, a gesture believed to inspire love and passion. Malaysian brides embraced the flower’s symbolic meanings of peace, beauty, and love, incorporating it into their hair, bouquets, and even the décor of their wedding pavilions.
The flower’s significance extended beyond weddings. In the Philippines, ylang-ylang was used in offerings to honor religious figures and sacred images. Locals wove it into leis or braided it into their hair, believing the fragrant blossoms brought balance and harmony. Beyond its ceremonial importance, ylang-ylang found its way into daily life. In Mayotte, for instance, it was combined with coconut oil to create "boori-boori" cream, a traditional remedy for fever and a natural shield against UV rays.
These cultural practices not only showcased the flower’s versatility but also paved the way for its journey into global markets.
Development of Ylang — Ylang Distillation and Export
Ylang-ylang’s prominence in local traditions set the stage for its evolution into a sought-after global product, driven by advancements in distillation techniques. Albertus Schwenger, working in Manila, was instrumental in refining these methods, transforming ylang-ylang from a regional treasure into an exportable luxury. By the late 19th century, French missionaries and colonists introduced the tree to Indian Ocean islands like Réunion, the Comoros, and Madagascar. These regions soon became key players in the global supply chain, outpacing Southeast Asia’s production.
Initially, the Philippines dominated ylang-ylang production, holding a monopoly until World War I disrupted supply chains. Rising competition shifted the industry’s focus to the Indian Ocean islands. By 1998, ylang-ylang oil accounted for 29% of the Comoros’ annual exports. Today, the Comoros produces around 70 tonnes of the global 100-tonne annual output, with Mayotte relying on ylang-ylang for 84% of its export revenue.
Ylang-ylang’s appeal expanded further with products like "Macassar oil", a Victorian-era hair tonic, and its inclusion in Chanel No. 5, launched in 1921. These milestones solidified the flower’s status as a cornerstone of luxury perfumery worldwide.
Ylang Ylang Farming & Essential Oil Distillation Process in the Philippines 🇵🇭
Growing and Processing Ylang — Ylang
Ylang — Ylang Oil Production Process and Grades
Main Production Areas in Southeast Asia
In Southeast Asia, the cultivation and processing of ylang-ylang reflect a blend of traditional practices and modern advancements. Countries like the Philippines, Indonesia, Malaysia, and Cambodia are key producers, growing Cananga odorata trees in tropical rainforests where the flower has deep historical roots. These trees thrive in humid climates with abundant rainfall and steady sunshine, blooming throughout the year, with peak production typically following the rainy season.
Ylang-ylang trees flourish in acidic soils commonly found on volcanic slopes or nutrient-rich alluvial plains. While wild trees can grow up to 100 feet tall, plantation growers prune them to a manageable height of 6 to 10 feet. This practice not only makes hand-picking easier but also boosts flower production. A mature tree can yield between 11 and 44 pounds of flowers annually and remains productive for nearly 50 years, beginning in its fifth year.
Harvesting is a delicate process. Flowers are picked at dawn when their fragrance is at its peak, with harvesters selecting blooms that have transitioned from green to a vibrant chartreuse-yellow with a crimson center. Due to their fragility, the flowers must undergo steam distillation immediately after picking to preserve their aromatic compounds. On average, 110 pounds of fresh flowers are needed to produce just 2.2 pounds of essential oil.
The combination of ideal growing conditions and precise processing techniques ensures the production of high-quality ylang-ylang essential oil.
Steam Distillation and Oil Grades
Ylang-ylang essential oil is extracted using fractional steam distillation, a process that separates oil fractions based on their density and volatility. This method takes 10 to 24 hours to complete, capturing different oil grades at specific intervals. For example, the Biolandes Group, as of November 2023, manages 270 hectares of ylang-ylang plantations in Madagascar and the Comoros. Their operations involve 200 daily pickers who harvest over 440,000 pounds of flowers annually, producing organic and fair-trade certified oils.
The distillation process yields several grades of oil, each suited for particular uses:
| Grade | Distillation Timing | Primary Uses |
|---|---|---|
| Extra / Super Extra | First 1–2 hours | High-end fine perfumery; richest in esters and density |
| First | Following Extra | Premium cosmetics and perfumery |
| Second | Mid-distillation | Everyday cosmetics, soaps, and functional perfumery |
| Third | Late distillation (10–20 hours) | Soaps, detergents, and budget-friendly fragrances |
| Complete | Blend of all fractions | Aromatherapy and therapeutic use |
The Extra grade, distilled during the first 1–2 hours, is prized for its sweet, creamy, and fruity top notes, making it a favorite in luxury perfumery.
Recent innovations have also refined traditional methods. For instance, Givaudan introduced a specialized sourcing program on Mohéli Island in the Comoros in January 2025. This program trains workers to harvest only mature flowers and incorporates a modified distillation process that lowers temperatures from 140°F to 86°F, ensuring distillation begins within two hours of harvest. Traditional distillation methods, however, remain resource-intensive, requiring nearly one ton of firewood to produce just 0.8 gallons of oil.
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Aromatic Qualities of Ylang — Ylang
Ylang-ylang is known for its sweet, creamy floral scent, layered with complexity. Its aroma includes spicy notes reminiscent of carnation and clove, along with a subtle banana-like nuance, thanks to the naturally occurring benzyl acetate. Perfume expert Steffen Arctander once described it vividly:
"Ylang-ylang oil has been called ‘the poor man’s jasmine,’ a nickname which the author strongly resents… It is so unusual in itself, so simple and yet so complex of odor… it easily finds its own place in perfumery."
The oil’s scent profile can vary depending on its grade. The Extra grade, derived from the earliest part of the distillation, offers a sharp, bright floral note. In contrast, lower grades provide deeper, richer undertones with balsamic, woody, and leathery characteristics.
Often compared to jasmine, narcissus, and tuberose, ylang-ylang is considered a "solar" flower, exuding a warm, tropical character. Its versatility and ability to anchor fragrances make it a cornerstone in both classic and modern perfumery. These qualities inspire its frequent use in signature scents, where it bridges timeless elegance with contemporary appeal.
Ylang — Ylang in Designer Fragrances
Ylang-ylang plays a starring role in some of the most iconic fragrances ever created. Chanel No. 5, launched in 1921, incorporates ylang-ylang in its top notes, adding depth to its groundbreaking aldehydic floral composition. Guerlain‘s Samsara, introduced in 1989, uses the flower to craft a hypnotic, sensual heart that pairs seamlessly with creamy sandalwood and vanilla. Meanwhile, Tom Ford‘s Soleil Blanc captures the tropical warmth and sunlit vibe of monoi oil, with ylang-ylang evoking the essence of sun-kissed skin.
For those hesitant to invest in full-sized bottles of these luxurious fragrances, decants offer a practical alternative. Scento‘s 8ml decants allow perfume lovers to explore ylang-ylang’s many facets in these celebrated compositions without committing to a larger purchase.
Ylang — Ylang’s Influence on International Perfumery
Journey from Southeast Asia to European Perfume Houses
The global perfume industry first took notice of ylang-ylang in 1860, thanks to German sailor Albertus Schwenger, who began commercial distillation in Manila. French missionaries and colonists later played a pivotal role in introducing the plant to islands like Réunion, Comoros, Madagascar, and Mayotte. These regions quickly became vital suppliers for European perfume makers. Today, the Comoros stands out, producing 70 of the global 100 tons of ylang-ylang annually, making it a major contributor to the country’s export economy.
Ylang-ylang cemented its place in perfumery history in 1921 with its inclusion in the legendary Chanel No. 5. Its versatility owes much to fractional distillation, a process that separates the oil into distinct grades — Extra, I, II, and III - each suited for different uses, from luxury fragrances to everyday soaps. The production process is also highly efficient, requiring just 50 kilograms of flowers to yield 1 kilogram of oil, making it a favorite among perfumers.
This rich history has not only shaped ylang-ylang’s legacy but also inspired modern approaches to ensure its future sustainability.
Responsible Cultivation and Current Trends
As the industry evolves, so does the cultivation of ylang-ylang, with a growing focus on ethical and sustainable practices. Traditional methods, while effective, have posed environmental challenges. For instance, distilling just three liters of ylang-ylang oil can consume nearly a ton of firewood, contributing to deforestation in the Comoros. To combat this, modern producers are adopting innovative solutions.
In 2026, Le Sourceur joined forces with AGK to introduce a solar-powered still in the Comoros, revolutionizing the process. Their approach, which produces "Ylang Extra Supérieur", distills the oil in just one hour instead of the traditional 20, reducing environmental impact by a staggering factor of 20. Similarly, Givaudan’s Mohéli project has refined the process further, lowering distillation temperatures from 140°F to 86°F and processing flowers within two hours to capture a superior essence.
Biolandes, another leader in sustainable practices, has operated a 270-hectare organic plantation in Ambanja, Madagascar, since 1997. Their field-to-bottle system is fair-trade certified, ensuring ethical production while meeting the rising demand for high-quality, organic ylang-ylang oil. This shift toward transparency and sustainability is particularly appealing to niche perfumers, who prize the premium "Extra Supérieur" fractions for their purity and quality.
Conclusion
Ylang-ylang holds a special place in the world of perfumery, showcasing Southeast Asia’s rich contribution to the global fragrance landscape. Native to the lush rainforests of the Philippines, Indonesia, and Malaysia, this "flower of flowers" has a history rooted in tradition. Its journey into modern perfumery began with Albertus Schwenger’s first commercial distillation in Manila in 1860, eventually earning its place as a luxurious ingredient in iconic creations like Chanel No. 5.
Perfumers prize ylang-ylang for its distinctive profile - a harmonious mix of sweet, creamy, and spicy notes. With variations depending on its distillation grade, it seamlessly enhances a wide range of fragrance compositions. From bright, floral arrangements to rich, exotic blends, ylang-ylang’s adaptability makes it an essential component in many fragrance families.
Efforts toward sustainable practices, such as solar-powered distillation in the Comoros and advanced processes by Givaudan in Mohéli, are ensuring ylang-ylang’s future while supporting fragile ecosystems. These initiatives not only safeguard an important natural resource but also inspire new possibilities in the art of perfumery.
Discover the allure of ylang-ylang with Scento’s curated decants, available in 0.75 ml, 2 ml, and 8 ml sizes. They offer a perfect way to explore designer fragrances without committing to a full bottle.
FAQs
Why does ylang-ylang smell different across perfumes?
Ylang-ylang’s fragrance profile can differ significantly in perfumes, depending on the type of extract used - such as essential oil grades, concrete, or absolute - and the distillation process applied. The region where it’s grown, like the Philippines or Madagascar, along with specific growing conditions, also plays a key role in shaping its aroma. Furthermore, the distillation time and temperature contribute to its final scent, making it a highly adaptable ingredient in the world of perfumery.
What do “Extra,” “First,” and “Complete” ylang-ylang oils mean?
In perfumery, “Extra” ylang-ylang oil is considered the highest quality, valued for its exceptional purity. The term “First” denotes a premium or initial grade, while “Complete” refers to a fully refined version. These labels help distinguish the varying levels of processing and purity essential to crafting fragrances.
How can I choose more sustainable ylang-ylang fragrances?
When choosing ylang-ylang fragrances with sustainability in mind, focus on brands that emphasize eco-friendly and fair trade principles. Seek out products with certifications like organic or fair trade, as these often support biodiversity and benefit local communities. Ylang-ylang sourced from areas such as Madagascar and the Comoros - where sustainable cultivation initiatives are increasingly prevalent - ensures more responsible production practices. Paying attention to these elements supports ethical consumption and helps protect the environment.
